Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHAs) are a group of natural acids found in foods that have been specially formulated to dissolve the Desmosomes, the tough adhesions that hold the dead skin cells together in the top layers of the epidermis, resulting in exfoliation of the uppermost layers of skin. This exfoliation reveals younger, brighter, smoother skin underneath.
AHAs are humectants that pull moisture into the skin. It is water soluble (attracted to water), so it increases hydration in the skin.
Gycolic Acid
Derived from sugarcane, smallest molecule of the AHAs which means it penetrates the epidermis deeper and faster than the other AHAs. The strongest of the AHAs. Stimulates collagen.
Ideal Client for Glycolic Acid would have
· Dull skin
· Uneven skin texture
· Skin roughness
· Dry Skin
· Fine lines
· Superficial pigmentation
· Mild sun damage
· Acne grades I & II, prone to blackheads and whiteheads
· Pseudo folliculitis Barbae (ingrown hair)
· Someone who wants little to no downtime
· Considered safe with all skin tones with proper preparation for darker skin tones.
Lactic Acid
Derived from sour milk, has a larger molecular size than Glycolic so it penetrates slower, less irritating, better for sensitive skin, first time peelers, and higher Fitzpatrick numbers. More hydrating than glycolic, a natural lightening agent, has anti-inflammatory properties, and stimulates collagen. Those intolerant to lactose does not mean they are allergic to lactic acid peel.
Ideal Client for Latic Acid would have
· Dry Skin
· Rosacea
· Dull Skin
· Mild to medium sun damage
· Pigment and Melasma
· Acne prone skin: Grades I & II
· Fine Lines
· Keratosis Pilaris
· Considered safe with all skin tones with proper preparation for darker skin tones.
L-Mandelic Acid
Derived from bitter almonds, has a larger molecule than glycolic, lactic, and malic acids so it penetrates the skin even slower, less irritating, better for sensitive skin, first time peelers, and higher Fitzpatrick numbers. Less risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) compared to the other AHAs. Has antibacterial and antiseptic properties.
Ideal Client for L-Mandelic Acid would have
· Oily and Dry skin
· Rosacea
· Dull skin
· Pigment and melasma especially for higher Fitzpatrick numbers.
· Acne Grades I & II
· Clogged pores
· Fine lines (not deep wrinkles)
· Considered safe with all skin tones with proper preparation for darker skin tones. Great for Fitzpatrick numbers IV to VI.
Citric Acid, Malic Acid
CITRIC ACID PEEL derived from citrus fruits, has the largest molecule of all AHAs. It has an excellent antioxidant activity due to its free radical scavenging effects. Exfoliates the impacted surface cells and is a natural skin brightener and softener.
MALIC ACID PEEL derived from apples, has a larger molecule than glycolic and lactic acids so it is gentler and less irritating. It supports natural cell renewal.
Both are not usually used as stand-alone peeling agents. They provide the most benefits when used in blended peels. They can be used right before other peels to prep the skin.
Ideal Client for Malic Acid and Citric Acid would have
· Sensitive skin
· Poor skin texture
· Uneven skin tone
· Enlarged pores
· Someone with skin types looking for a glow. Safe for all skin types and tones.
· Someone who wants a pre-treatment step before application of AHA peel or to acclimate the skin to AHA Peels.
· Someone who wants an antioxidant, rejuvenating effects.
Radiant Phytic Acid
Derived from grains, legumes, and rice. This is a combination peel with other AHAs, has an antioxidant and superficial exfoliating properties, safe for Fitzpatrick numbers I to VI. Considered as an overnight superficial exfoliation treatment. Can be used on the neck/decollete.
Ideal Client for Phytic Acid would have
· Sensitive skin
· Often have blemish breakouts
· Someone who wants to freshen and clear the skin while adding a brightening glow.
· Someone who wants no post peel recovery period or mild flaking of skin.
• Someone who wants to minimize epidermal pigmentation